Friday, November 28, 2014

no shortcuts - don't cheat yourself

instead of a glorious send of the super classic "insanity of grandeur, 8C" (we don't take "webby-grades" too serious, do we? he's supernatural... ;) - i am back at the start again... : after falling on the second last move to the lip on "insanity" and powering through the super hard start sequence up the four times a day i knew something was "wrong" - i never ever was able to "cruise" this start sequence so many times before in a session. did i got that much stronger? well that would be nice. but honestly i don't think so (even if i feel stronger, but not THAT much stronger).


close-up from the intermediate-"hold" from which i do have to move my feet:
 before the breake it was super bad,
as it broke it got quite "juggy", making it possible to suddenly control this heinous start sequence
and changing the character of the two existing boulders way too much.
so i glued the broken part back - it's pretty heinous again... ;)


late last spring i broke a part of this not so good intermediate hold - making it better. i did not think that it was much of a difference but kept the broken part at home. obviously i was wrong and it was quite a big difference. i nearly could cross now on what was just a really bad intermediate before. so i glued the broken part back - AND got hammered. it took me another two sessions to just get through this three start moves again... and it feels as desperate and insecure as it felt before the break! then it took me another two sessions to get back one move below my highpoint. three weeks "lost" and i may will not send this season anymore. but it felt like "cheating" and "wrong" to keep climbing with the bigger hold as i knew how hard it was before. hopefully i did not loose too much time. i finally feel like the "resistance"-power is coming back again and i don't get suddenly tired anymore. it's nice to feel strong again ;)

now that rain should stop next week and if i am lucky (for once) i get a few more decent (not too cold) days and will be able to finish up "insanity" before winter hits - if i don't i don't mind too much as it's just such a brilliant piece of climbing. but then there is this "big cat" waiting on the left as well... :)

where i went down some days ago: three more moves and this nasty mantle.
epic in full swing again.... ;)






Saturday, November 15, 2014

back on track...



it was COLD up there at sustenpass - but so beautiful with snow and the road closed

nothing better then great people, great climbing and great food... :) on may way back... crazy solo session up at sustenpass. 80min hike, 3C and 60+km/h wind (flying pads).... perfect friction... but bit too cold... froze off the last move of highlander again - and then got even some good links in "fetter hase project"....

went down on the match.... after freezing off two times after the 8B part... i made it to the second last move (before the mantel) of "insanity" on my third try of the day... why not on my first try?! thanx for that great (night) session prisca and nico!!!
making good progress on "big cat" (standstart) -
 if you are tall you miss all this crazy "midget-moves" on the "mellow terrain".... what a shame ;)


2more moves on insanity... and making good progress on the "easy" (8B? for my size) super cool standstart of "big cat". so i am on that point again on going down on the last move of everything...  would be nice to finish off something before winter will def. close the season. so when this shitty weather (record rainfall in ticino the second week in a row...) would for once turn nice again i may even could send something this season - looks like mid next week the rain will finally stop... going insane or be sane is the question... ;)

had a great day with my friend jesse (check out his blog). we had a great climbing day and a great dinner at "defanti" in lavorgo (chironico) :)

giving in is not an option - no matter what... ;)




Sunday, November 9, 2014

better days to come



i got quite some feedback about my latest blog post. thanx everybody! people were wondering what the hell was going on with me. well nothing too special. you know that life can really su*k. but mostly it's about your life, cause everybody else seems to have a hell of a good time. thats what you get when you follow your "friends" on facebook, or 8X.nu (no i am not on fb nor on 8X.ohno). on fb (climbing) life is just so easy, all boulders are soft, everybody is super strong, everything is second go and 6A+ at max... , there are 2day epics (sic)... but yes there are also other (climbing)people out there which don't have 24/7 the greatest fun, struggle to balance work,climbing,life - and (climbing)life can really su*k sometimes... and as it is in real life there are better days to come - that's it, that's al.




Thursday, October 30, 2014

bad timing, bad decisions, bad everything...

once again.... totally crazy... i felt strong and was able to climb solid into the last move for about 10times during rain/fog with wet holds at the start of the month (like in april). with two weeks of holidays (what means enough sleep and recovery) and better weather in the forecast i was sure this four weeks in october should be more then enough to complete my nemesis-project up there at sustenpass. i was sure all i needed was some dry days.












but i should have had known better... somehow it only got worser and worser...... a distracted mind because of personal/familiy-troubles, bad skin, bad luck and too warm weather (up to 20degrees) made me feel like shit during the last three weeks. 

every day up there i felt like i was just fighting against sliding off the holds. while i was training in the gym i felt super strong and fit... but as soon as i was up there... i was too late at the crag... too early... not rested enough... rested too long... it once was my speciality to be at the right place at the right moment... somehow, at the moment it looks like i "lost" this.... and i constantly felt like being at the wrong place at wrong moment... not just in climbing - and then the snow arrived...


Saturday, October 25, 2014

perfection - a must see!!!



the riding skills, the camera work, the music - perfection!!!

Friday, October 24, 2014

crazy swizzy weather




CRAZY - perfect weather again.... for the next 14days... if there just would not be this 80cm of SNOW -*ç%&£é:!;/&(ç*"+??!!!   ... well i will "wait"... train my ass off and may i get another chance... may not... we will see... time to get stronger anyway... ;)




Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Monday, October 6, 2014

why it would be nice to be a pro (sometimes)

a day off from work.... a bit rainy... climbing? yes!!! friction? no!!! going for it anyway - and going down on the last move of the highlander again....






























weather the day before while working.... - no comment....






























Wednesday, October 1, 2014

i just climbed the "highlander"

but i did not top out... i did let go... crazy??? nope!!!

at the end of the day - after falling off the last move (again) and another good try - i wanted to check out the "new bypass" beta for the lower crux and the hardest section of the boulder (where also the hardest moves for ikarus/deadalus wait) - and just climbed it to end of the hard part - where i did let go. well WHY did i let go after the hard part?! after 10years i finally made it there... so WHY let go? because THIS was not "THE" highlander-project i was trying over all the years.

the "new bypass" beta climbs around the hardest move of the boulder. a move that still gives me a lot of trouble. some days i just can't do it on link. a move that is pretty weird and strange. a move that involves a hold that is wet a lot of times. so it would be very nice to avoid this move. this "new" beta does avoid this move and i did try this "new" beta already years ago. but the bottom was so close it was impossible to climb this section without dabbing. during the years there was quite a bit of erosion at the boulder, and also "human" erosion... a lot of climbing was going on and over time stones and vegetation have/ have been moved and now this "new" beta is quite ok to climb and seems totally natural to do so if you don't know how the place looked before.

the hardest move that suddenly could be by-passed low left thanx to "erosion"...
i know that some climbers did come very close and did put quite some effort into climbing ikarus/deadalus this summer. and they were using this "new bypass" beta. i really don't want to "shut down" a climb on nobody. i was thinking a lot about it but the ikarus/deadalus boulders had been done and repeated before this "new bypass" beta was possible. it's like a new hold as "appeared" and it definitely changes the line and the character of the boulder. and it also changes the character of the "highlander-project". for sure you could say you could climb it on the "original" variation and on the "new" variation. but for a visiting climber it will look totally stupid to climb to crux with a defined very strange and hard move when there is a smooth way around this move.

good thing about "erosion" is that it can be corrected. i (re)built the bottom back to where it once was. the "new bypass" beta should no longer be possible, but there is other beta (then the heinous undercling move) for sure. please respect this pile of dirt (sic). and now lets hope for a decent fall - and some send days... :)

Sunday, September 21, 2014

it's on when it's on - great start into the highlander season

back on it again and after 10+ years (call me crazy i don't mind) i still like to climb these moves - and i got very close on the full line (once again).

15C, holds were partly wet/humid - but WIND made it feel pretty sticky - and i felt fit and fresh. so i just wanted to test my fitness and went for it - and fell off the last hard move of the "highlander"....

thats the last hard move - which i failed to link (once again)

well i may have fallen off that move 60+ times over the last 5years... so no big deal, can happen up to three times a day. BUT - WOW: that has never happened on a "first day back" - what a (re)start into my highlander-project. it looks like it was a good decision to get fit by (re)climbing more hard classics in avers and sustenpass then i used to and mix it up with some gym-training. six weeks ago after my "extended" summer-break i was barely able to climb a 7A+. Now i am back climbing 8B+ again and (despite a shoulder, a finger, a knee and some hamstrings not at 100%) feeling strong and fresh - what a difference to july where i felt just tired and worn out in the heat after a long season - what a great feeling to climb in crisp pre fall conditions again :)

on my second try of the day i was super close to make it through that heinous "traumland-undercling-move" again. i fell off at the last bit of the move... waited for one minute, chalked up, did one move into the start of reve de faire and climbed it up to the last move again... so fitness IS back AND the weather forecast finally looks like the LONG awaited stable high-pressure weather could settle in next week.

no more rain???!!! that would help for sure!!!!


i could not ask for more. well ok, there is one thing... i may would like to climb just one move further this season.... just ONE MOVE... you know... its not that that many moves after having done 17hard ones in a row.

so if weather plays along i have now 4-6weeks for ONE MORE MOVE... JUST THAT ONE MORE MOVE...  (ok, this 7A/B ending will still be hard... but believe me, i will be bit motivated for that part if i finally will make it there)

and yes, to just not forget it: there is still no free lunch for me up there... because if my foot would not have had slipped off in the middle of the crux.. *a09q7'q08w!£à£YXCéàV$!?"*ç%V* - but well that would have had been too easy after all this years (10+ years)... wouldn't it... ;)