first time on rock again ;)

it was a nice half-day out in the murgstal: everybody ripping; angela coming closer and closer to "painful love, 7C"... (i can't even imagine to hold such little shitty holds...) and ronny is battling down his traverse project... looks super hard and super cool... (and he just went down on the last move two days ago..) ...and aldo was taking nice pics of everybody - thanks aldo!

angela getting super close on the heinous crux-move (you don't really want to pull on that right-hand hold at all!!!)  of "painful love, 7C" .... pic by aldo tonazzi

ronny battling hard for the FA of his RAD 8X-ish project...  pic by aldo tonazzi

and i was first time on rock since 6.5 months .. ;) it was strange to climb on rock again after 2months of just indoor. i felt like a beginner again who was searching for that next red foothold... - and i am still pretty restricted in the moves by my leg... (and the holds were sharp, i had no skin and everywhere this little scrambling black bastardos called: ticks's...) - but it was great fun nevertheless... ;)

month 3 after surgery...


see the difference ;)

month 7 after surgery...

getting some air on my first 7A+ - i can really push on my right leg again (if its not too steep) ... ;) pic by aldo tonazzi

half time: 6 months post surgery... slow but steady progress

just had my 6months post surgery appointment with my doc. after checking the newly made mri-picture its clear that everything is on its place, but its also visible that the tendons are still in the healing-process!   so everything is going on like it should be and i am very thankful for that!

my hamstrings 6months ago...

...and the newly attached hamstrings back there where they belong

overall i am doing really good, but i can feel how weak and tight my hamstrings still are. lots of "daily stuff" is just not possible yet, some disconfort here and there.... but nothing against how i was doing before surgery!

i still have quite a journey in front of me. but i am happy that i am now cleared to really step up with training and to go for 100% in the next few weeks. i really lack coordination and speed as well, so we started to work on that in pt....

doing "baby-kicks" at pt to get some speed back in my legs
- it just did not got higher yet with my leg - had to laugh about myself and my "baby-kicks" ... ;)

climbing wise i am doing better and better and i can feel how some power is coming back on the holds (feels great actually!). it looks like the campus and hangboard-training at the climbing-gym really pays off. also angela makes great progress but we both are still far away from a one-arm pull up though... ;) but while climbing i can feel that you quite often need two ok legs, especially when it gets steep. i just can't pull down full weight with my right leg yet... but i am working on that!

slowly getting back in "shape"... ;)

first time ever i did some "real training" like campusing for more then two times in row... it actually even can make fun... - sort of.. ;)

once the weather gets better (horrible spring so far...) i may will make my firsts (easy) steps back on real rock soon. but i have to be careful no not slip on pads and going into splits... so we will see. gym provides much more safety as the ground is flat and not moving when you come down. 3more months and i will be cleared to fully heelhook again... still bit scared when i think for that moment to come... but we are working with exercises in pt on that as well. till then training (2-3times pt and 2-3times climbing) to get ready for the "highlander" in fall...  the "kraft-stoff"-diet will help as well ... ;)

"kraft-stoff" keeps you STRONG - thanx again ingo ;)

one year after

one year ago i climbed my dream-boulder - today i am "just" wandering around in ticino. but its nice to be in ticino again, walking around with no pain, touching rock... - my leg is getting better and better, my power is coming back... just some more weeks of patience... can't wait to start crushing again... so motivated... so much to do... :)

the PERFECT LINE, what a PROUD BOULDER - nice one nalle!!! ("ninja-skills, 8B+")

5months after surgery - bouldering again!!!

having fun close to the ground at "gaswerk" in zürich. still restricted in the moves, no fancy stuff, indoor's only - but GREAT FUN :)

NEW movie site from dai koyamada (with hd-download-option)

over the time quite some people asked me if i got info's about movies/dvd's from dai koyamada (and his swizzy/europe-journeys). but his movies have been just available as dvd and mostly just available in asia. now there is a new website online with an implemented download-option for dai's climbing (bouldering) movies:
"dai's video diaries vol. 3" (the swizzy journeys) is the first movie to be there, more will follow. check it out if you are interested:

http://www.daikoyamadaclimbingmovies.com/

Dai’s Video Diaries Vol. 3: “The Swizzy Journeys” is about the travels before Dai Koyamada was able to climb one of the hardest boulders in the world; “The Story Of Two Worlds (Low), 8C+” at Cresciano. Follow Dai Koyamada on his journey trough the finest and hardest granite boulders Switzerland has to offer: From the second ascent of “In Search of Time Lost, 8C” at Magic Wood to the first ascent of “Dark Matter, 8B+/C” at the same area to the first ascent and never seen footage of “Deadalus Direct, 8B+/C”, and “Paradise Lost 8B+” at the beautiful high alpine area of Sustenpass. Witness a rare ascent of “From Shallow Waters To Riverbed, 8B+” at Magic Wood and Dai’s amazing climbing style while repeating the hardest problems in Cresciano and Chironico. Even if it looks sometimes like Dai is just flying trough a problem, you will also see that he has to dig deep and that there is a lot of effort and passion behind a seemingly effortless send!

but be aware that "dai' video diaries vol.3" is quite an "old skool"-movie: no bass wummering sounds, no gangster-kids, no yoga, no blablabla - just one hour of pure and hard climbing - i like ;)

「dai's video diaries vol.3 

219days to go - great week of FIRSTS :)

its still a LONG way to go till i will be able/aloud to push hard again. everything has to be in control, no dynamic, fast moves... but its always nice and good for motivation to have this little and bigger milestones. and this weekend i got past TWO of the bigger ones :)

after five months: having FUN climbing again @gaswerk

i had my first little jog and at the "gaswerk" in zürich i had my FIRST CLIMBING session since 5months!!! i pushed my limit from 2a to a 6a "toprope-flash" ;) still some room to climb 8C again... but hey, i am CLIMBING again and that is just great!!!

233 days to go; training - and after training

TRAINING

the problem with "normal" weight-machines is that you never have the same resistance over the whole exercise, so the exercise is somehow "ineffective". you can also not precisely control the amount of power used, what can be dangerous in terms of reinjury when you pull too hard. so there is this computer-controlled high-tech-machine that regulates the resistance so you need all the time the same power to pull/push. it also releases the resistance when i apply too much power... nice safety-mechanism! funny stuff this machine! how about such things to train with for climbing related muscles???

 AND AFTER TRAINING... ;)

240 days (8m) to go - keeping the motivation high...

i can't believe i made it 4months (plus two more weeks before surgery) without climbing. but with 100% workload, up to 5times physio-therapy/week and some nice parties going on - time is running down fast. as i have a clear vision of what will be in 8months from now (highlander - yessss) and a lovely girlfriend who takes care of me - i am even able to enjoy the different lifestyle (the physio and party-part) at the moment... ;) 

sitting is still an issue and last week i had stretched my hamstrings too hard and suffered for some days... but i am still getting a little bit better every day. 2weeks and i will be on my first little jog again, 8weeks and i will be on my first 4a-top-rope again. can't wait for that, but i have to hold myself back as my tendons still need time to properly heal onto the bone.

i am sure many of you will already have seen the movies below. otherwise i highly recommend to watch them. i was just blown away when i had seen the first two "scarred for life" episodes from nathan bancroft from achromatic.tv and i just can't stop watching them. the music fits so well, the (filming and) editing is just outstanding. the two episodes show pure dedication, from the climbers and from the filmmaker. in my eyes they are amongst the very few climbing flicks that really catch and transport the process and they really got not just the climbing, the got "IT"!!!*

*but be cautious, may you don't want to watch them as they can make you want to go bouldering NOW!!! "arrrghhh" - i want to go bouldering - NOW!!! ;)

HELP for FONTAINEBLEAU

more and more interests are playing into the usage of the area of the magic woods of fontainebleau. so its important to be (stay) in organisation s who have direct access to where policies are made how these area will be regulated in the future!

so please help font; tell all your friends and subscribe this petition

the secret is unlocked!!! how to get down to 6.6% bodyfat in 3months?

well, just sit around for three months, EAT and DRINK.. and PARTY...;)

physiotherapy just really kicked in, and for a general overview my body just got scanned. i told them i was basically sitting at home for the last three months... they ended up doing the scanning twice as they did not believe the results ;) at 181cm and 73kg,  the result was 6.6% (4.8kg) bodyfat - thats considered pretty low for a workout called "just hanging in a couch for months..." ;)

 to give you the details of my last 3months workout, i posted some pics below... ;)

after i got my results from the scan i was pretty hungry. so i was looking for some tasty and healthy food... look what i found... ;)