Saturday, May 14, 2016

the near send, part 6 - the glorious moment

well i have another one for you. after slipping twice after all the hard climbing i rested for over 2hrs. the conditions just were so good and they even improved. more wind. colder. and you always have another try... don't you?! and at 0:30AM i did start for another try. using all my new micro beta i made sure to NOT slip from any FOOTHOLD. and to my upmost surprise all the heels and toes stayed...

unbelievable.....IT FINALLY WORKED... right arm was getting tired but my left felt still strong. i was very close on falling on the second last move cause of this tired right arm. but somehow managed to stay on...

so i was up there for the VICTORIOUS MOVE TO THE LIP...

...started to pull on with (the still fresh) left arm... but WATCH yourself.... hahahaha....

somehow managend to dry fire with my left hand. at least my feet stayed - but somehow you can slipp off with your hands as well, can't you?!

but giving in is just not an option. there is some foe-wind in the forecast. so i will be back. already curious what magic i will produce to mess it up one more time... i am sure i will have something very creative for you on my next blog... hahaha

Monday, May 9, 2016

the near send, part4 and part5

thanks to to the magic "foen-wind" a 30min drive is all you need from snowy winter in the north to sunny summer in the south.... loving swizzy :)))))

i did make perfect use of the "foen-wind"....  and did look closely why i lost this heel last time (part3), there was a little "bulb" there in the rock where i slipped, i placed to heel 5cm lower.. and it slipped not when i arrived next time up there. but to make things not too easy i did choose to go for this:

slipping from the left foothold... should not, but can happen... bad luck... blalala

30 min later on my next try i did really make it again up to there; did concentrate on my left foot AND:

... somehow i managed to copy part 4 perfectly.... so strong... hahahahah... madness is lurking around the corner... *%&"+*&/(/é£_è

Thursday, May 5, 2016

the near send, part 3

well i finally made it through the hard part again.... did not loose any heel in the hard part, (thanx to new micro beta) and then this happened:

well, i am afraid, no real excuse this time... but i still managed to go down true-martin-style.... hahah... to be continued

Tuesday, May 3, 2016

the near send, part2

well i have another one for you :) next day i had another shoe with me, guess what happened next???

well this time my heel broke on the left and right; may its time for a new shoe... hahaha....

i am already wondering WHAT WILL GO WRONG next time... the motto for me down here seems to be; WHAT CAN GO WRONG WILL GO WRONG... well never mind. I WILL BE BACK...  more serious punting ahead... hehehe

Saturday, April 30, 2016

the near send

when you recently have fallen on your project a few times on the last moves when there were pretty bad conditions. when you feel stronger then ever. when you are well rested. when you slept enough. when you did eat enough. when you're skin is good. when you feel good. when you feel strong and light on your warmup. when there are perfect conditions. it is not a real hybris to expect at least a few good tries. isn't. it?! well. you know i can do better. this is what i do:

i may have a little excuse... but still. no matter which line i try to climb on this boulder, not matter what i do. it really gets the better of me. but i will be back, baby!!!!!!!

Thursday, April 21, 2016

sticking the crux move again - BUT - watch yourself

seems like i really have to earn it. not that 13years of effort would be enough. haha. good thing when you have a few days off so you can shovel your project free from the last snow a storm brought over the last days. it just involves a 2hrs drive. a 2hrs walk up with your split board and gear. a 90min "board and walk" back in the night (cause of the avi-danger during the afternoon). and a 2hrs drive home. but there are worser places to spend a day off. for sure. its just so beautiful up there at the moment. i just can't get enough of these mountains :)

next day there was some climbing as well; no comment needed there.... you have to earn it as well.... hahaha....

Monday, April 18, 2016

one more try (day) and it will be done, they said

long but beautiful hike up to sustenbrüggli...

thanx for all the kind words after my last post. just one more try... thats what many thought. i knew better. i am always good for messing it up. haha. but have a look yourself how i can mess up rare days when you feel strong and and the conditions line up perfectly;

first go i felt really good, just a bit cold fingers, with high hopes i entered the crux and was giving all i had... when i slipped off the right foothold... lifted myself to high up and lost contact with my right foot.... beginner mistake

second go i got into the crux-move again; but somehow managed to punt on the deadpoint before, and did just have three fingers on the righthand crimp. no way i can do the crux move like that...

i just rested some 20min for my third go to avoid cold fingers... despite not really rested and feeling already bit tired everything went perfectly... i even got the hold... but was too tired to get the tension to hold the swing...  fitness is improving for sure... but why messing it up twice just to get through all the hard climbing already tired on my third go??? sometimes i really feel too stupid!!!

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

i only waited 6 years for that moment

2 day epic? try 6 YEAR epic. nearly 6 years ago i have fallen on this crux-move of the highlander-project for the first time on link. since then i must have fallen on this last hard move over 60 times... and its not exactly a walk in the park to get there... around 8B+ climbing itself up to there....

and now i was there again.... setting up for this last hard move once more;

setting up for the crux-move on the "highlander-project, sustenpass" - i have fallen here 6years ago for the first time... 60+ times over the last years....

sticking the move;
but i did that already a few times last fall but was never able to hold on....

lost my left foot - like every time during last fall - swinning out... and going down was what happened all the time....

but NOT THIS TIME - somehow killed the swing - for the first time in SIX YEARS i did this move on link!!!!
(and i even did not have the left hold in the right spot)

managed to get into the "resting point" - and desperately tried to shake out -
(at this point its up to all the couch-boulder-graders out there; its just a six move 7B from that resting point, that can't be too much of a great deal after climbing an 8B+/C... can it?!)

setting up for the last three hard moves.... going a muerte

setting up for the very last move (maybe 6C) to the massive jug up right at the lip; sticking that move would end my 16year journey with the "highlander-project..."

.....want to see what happened next? follow this link to my new instagram-account - epic for sure - what else - hahah ;)

Thursday, April 7, 2016

FA of the sitdownstart to HERITAGE in valle bavona

nearly forgot about that one ;) what an amazing place this valle bavona is; its remote, located far north in the mountains in one of the large ticino-valleys. there are just a few small picturesque villages like sonlerto which is well known after dosage4. So not much there, but its littered with (huge) granite boulders and stunning lines. most of it its not climbable, choss or no holds. but then there are this famous climbs; dave grahams "coup de grace", "kings of sonlerto, nalles "off the wagon", doro's slab, elysium, trigonometry. All five start lines that will let your jaw drop for sure when you see them the first time in real "climbing"-life...

...and then there is "heritage" from super strong carlo traversi. Its not as freestanding as other lines, but nevertheless a stunning line with amazing climbing. really powerful, still subtle with the various body placements and with a great move to the lip followed by a few interesting slab-moves (especially with ice-cold fingers) a bit higher above the ground. to make it short; a real must. pure fun to climb and with some repetitions as well.

heritage has a "walk in start" (aka american ads). that means you take the starting-holds first and place the feet afterwards.

the walk-in-start from original start to "heritage"; 

after completing "heritage" from its original start i wanted to have a look at a proper sit-down-start. you can grab the same holds from sitting (on a small pad) and you have footholds straight underneath as well. but the footholds are of not much use, as you need your feet to the very right. the crux now is to bring your feet from the start-foot-holds to the very right where you need them for the big first move. after some puzzling and some sore abs-muscles cause of all the toe-hooking i found a very nice solution which needs some core strength. 

the sit-down-start to "heritage" - adds a few tricky and strenuous toe-moves - makes this beautiful boulder complete - brilliant climbing!!!

after falling once on the very top (already had done the big move in the pic below) and some punting (so typical for me) i was able to climb "heritage" with a proper sit down start. making this beautiful boulder even more complete. thanx to nico for the good times, saving my ass while taking a big fall and for the good view in the mornings:

the view from nico's place; as good as it gets :)

i did not use carlo's beta for the upper part, way too hard beta for me and with his beta for sure in the 8B+ area. with the "new" beta; soft (to stay en vogue) 8B will fit better for the classic heritage. the boulder is for sure harder from its sds then with its original start. 8B/+ ? whatever - its still soft, cause i am soooo strong and sooooo cool, and soooo brave.... and sooooooo hummer..... hahah - go and climb it. its pure fun :)

sticking the big crux move of "heritage, sds. valle bavona". 
(the slabby topout is quite interesting with icing-cold fingers as well)

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

because i want to be ready

when the good conditions line up. all ticino was soaking wet, but the weather forecast had some fön-wind and unusual warm (up to 20C) and dry weather for the northern part of swizzy for the next few days. so back i was at sustenpass. it was a long and bit scary walk and i was shoveling for nearly 4hours... there was a lot of snow on top and the rock dripping wet. but i really hoped the effort would pay off when i would return in a few days.

really "traumland" at the moment. so beautiful and so calm.

my "little" hike up to sustenpass turned out to be a bit longer... 2:30hrs up in epic winter conditions...  there was no "road" any more... not too funny and even bit scary cause of a slippery snowpac and possible wet avalanches as well...

walking up with my split board. no way to just walk up in "regular" shoes at the moment. its still WINTER up in the mountains

long walk ahead

the "road" is filled up, lot steeper then it looks here, quite slippery and even bit scary with possible more slides coming down. better be early...

digging out the pads... uffffff

after digging out the pads for 2hrs and digging another 1:30hrs for the topout... i tried to dry the  seeping boulder a bit so i could climb a few sequences. after this 5:30 hrs exercise (walking up and digging) i felt quite tired and surprised myself to climb all the hard part of the "highlander" for two times... and the hard part of "reve de faire" part another two times. the whole day was a nice training session for sure ;)

getting in some training -  still loving these moves after all the years - feeling strong - which is nice :)

i was really pleased that the two last hard moves of the "highlander" felt as solid as never before. looks really like the bit of hang-boarding starts to pay off. more finger power. i am looking forward how this moves feel without digging snow for 3+hrs before climbing on them...